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The pinnacle of Japanese shrine architecture, Nikko’s construction employed 4.5 million artists and craftsmen for 17 months and cost the equivalent of 40 billion yen. It enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa Shogun and one of Japan’s three great unifiers.
As the Nikko Section contains over 100 highly-detailed images, I have split the section into three pages. This first page covers the entrance area and the Lower Level. The second page covers the Yomeimon Gate and the Tozai Kairo including the Tozai Kairo’s ornate exterior nature panels. The third page covers the Upper Level, including the Honsha (central shrine) and Okusha (inner shrine). I have provided a hyperlinked index to the entire three-page section on each page, so you can navigate to any part of Nikko if you want to.
Click an image to open a larger version. Use your back button to return to this page. Composites will open in a second window.
Nikko Section Index
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— Links are grouped by pages —
The Entrance The Tale of the Three Monkeys The Lower Level
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The Yomeimon Gate Tozai Kairo (Colonnade) Tozai Kairo exterior panels
The Upper Level Honsha (central shrine) Okusha (innermost shrine)
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Images in this section are in a number of different Galleries on the Photoshelter website. The Banner below leads to the Japan Collections page where a Gallery can be selected.
There are 21 Galleries in the Photoshelter Japan Collection — Nikko Toshogu Shrine is in the following Galleries (Direct Link) —
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Lower Level
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Honsha and Okusha
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Nikko Toshogu Shrine
Two hours northeast of Tokyo by train, in the Cryptomeria forests around Mt. Nantai, lies Nikko, the site of the premiere Toshogu Shrine and Ieyasu Tokugawa’s tomb. This magnificent architecture blends with the forest to create a visual and spiritual impression that is awe-inspiring and truly memorable. Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine represents the pinnacle of Japanese Shrine architecture. Below you will find a very comprehensive set of images of the Toshogu Shrine. I’ve tried to cover it completely.
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There’s a saying in Japan:
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“See Nikko before you die”.
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It cost the equivalent of 40 billion yen in today’s currency to build... that’s a $333 million shrine. ( ! ) 4.5 million people worked on the shrine for 17 months to complete the construction. The very finest of Japan’s artists and sculptors (especially sculptors), and the best craftsmen were on the project.
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Nikko is an amazing place. I tried to cover it completely. The most extensive section of the Japan portfolio, I have used more wide thumbnails than usual. The buildings and decorations are very detailed and quite ornate, extensively sculpted and painted, and the location in a forest adds detail due to the fine needles. This is an unbelievably detailed place.
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Because of all the needles and detailed sculpturing of the buildings, file sizes can grow larger. I used more of the wide thumbnails so that enough detail is exhibited in display images and to allow easier decisions on which of the larger images to open. I guarantee you’ll find it worth the time to open many of the large versions of these shots.
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The Upper Level Shinyosha, Mikoshi, Kaguraden, Kitouden, Honsha, Okusha
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Nikko Shinyosha Kairo 8597
On the left, a part of the interior of the Kairo which houses stacked barrels of sake donated to the Toshogu shrine. On the right is the Shinyosha, just to the left of the Yomeimon as you enter.
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Nikko Shinyosha 8621
The Shinyosha houses the Mikoshi palanquins (also called portable shrines), which are used to carry the deities in the Togyosai Festival.
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Nikko Shinyosha Mikoshi 8187
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Nikko Shinyosha Mikoshi 8190
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The kanji for Mikoshi is also read Shinyo, which is the origin of the name Shinyosha.
These are the Mikoshi, sacred palanquins (or portable shrines) used to carry the deities to the Futarasan shrine during the Togyosai Festival which reenacts the ceremony during which the deified spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu was moved from the initial place of enshrinement at Mt. Kuno to the Nikko Toshogu shrine in 1617. The 1000-person procession takes place every May 17-18.
The central and right Mikoshis have a Hou-ou (Phoenix) mounted on the roof.
The central Mikoshi carries the deified spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the right carries the spirit of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and the left carries the spirit of Minamoto no Yoritomo. Minamoto no Yoritomo was the founder and first shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate (1192-1333), ruling Japan from 1192-99. Toyotomi Hideyoshi completed Oda Nobunaga’s quest to end the Sengoku (Warring States) period and unify Japan in 1590 (see the Castles page).
The Mikoshi weigh 800kg each (the originals weighed 1120kg, but were replaced with these when the originals were deemed too heavy for modern people). 55 people carry each Mikoshi in the procession (each person carries 32 pounds).
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Shinyosha Tennyo 8631 (2000 x 800, 408kb)
Tennyo (Heavenly Maidens, Flying Apsaras, servants of the Deva) dancing and playing musical instruments on the ceiling of the Shinyosha.
Painting by Kano Tanyu (1620s).
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Nikko Kaguraden Kitouden 8586
On the right side of the Yomeimon gate, opposite the Shinyosha, are the Kaguraden (right) and the Kitouden. The Kaguraden is a stage on which The Yaotome maidens perform court dances during the Spring Festival, coming to Toshogu from Futarasan shrine.
The Kitouden is the prayer hall (called the Kamishamusho since the Meiji government separated Buddhist temples from the Shinto shrines). Meiji allowed the Kitouden to remain at Nikko Toshogu shrine. Kamishamusho means upper office, a euphemistic name used to satisfy the letter of Meiji’s law and keep the hall.
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Kamishamusho detail 8275
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Two detail shots of the Kamishamusho
The shots in the Tozai Kairo section showing a priest performing the services were taken through the opening between the pillars in shot 8586, directly above. The shot to the left shows the right side relative to the perspective in shot 8586. The roof detail shot below is of the right corner of the roof facing us in shot 8586, and the detail crop below is from the rear. • • It is normally very difficult to shoot one of the services in the Kamishamusho, as they are held just after the shrine opens in the morning. I had to convince the monk at the gate to let me in early, then scoot up to the second level (shooting some on the way) to make it on time. I had to try to take a few shots, because normally a few hundred people are milling about, and as you noticed I try to get my shots with as few people as possible. Tricky.
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Nikko is generally swarmed with people, who tend to move in herds in temples and shrines. There is often just a second or two when you can get a clear shot of something from a distance, and you often have to wait a while to shoot it, as the herd moseys in close for their examination of your intended subject. The timing of each of these images at Nikko is therefore critical, and you only get one chance. Of course, roof line shots are much easier, as unlike Chinese Kung-Fu films, the people do very little floating around. Still, this is one reason why I was pleased to have been successful at convincing the monk at the gate to let me in a few minutes early the morning I took the Kamishamusho service shots. By rapidly getting shots and moving on, I maintained my few minute lead on the herd and did not have to wait at all to take shots, at least until after I got the Kamishamusho service, as I was there for quite a while and the people caught up to me. It was worth it.
Kamishamusho detail 8211
Note the dragon above the pillar on the left.
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— Return to the Index at the top of this page —
Images in this section are in a number of different Galleries on the Photoshelter website. The Banner below leads to the Japan Collections page where a Gallery can be selected.
There are 21 Galleries in the Photoshelter Japan Collection — Nikko Toshogu Shrine is in the following Galleries (Direct Link) —
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Lower Level
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Honsha and Okusha
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Honsha (central shrine)
Nikko Toshogu Honden 8591
This is the Honden (Main Hall) of the Honsha (central shrine), built in the Gongen-zukuri style (Gongen is the divine name for Ieyasu). To the left is the Honden Karamon Gate. The Haiden Oratory (constructed identically but reversed) is to the right out of picture.
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Nikko Toshogu Honden 8755
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Nikko Toshogu Honden 8758 Below are a series of detail shots
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Nikko Toshogu Honden detail 8284
The Gongen-zukuri style has the Honden and Haiden linked in an H-shape by a central, stone-floored chamber called the Ishinoma. This style influenced the architectural style of mausoleums and shrine buildings that followed after the construction of the Nikko Toshogu shrine. The Nikko Toshogu shrine is considered the pinnacle of Japanese shrine architecture and defines the character of shrines.
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Nikko Toshogu Honden detail 0013
This is the Karamon Gate to the Honden, details of which will be shown further below.
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Nikko Toshogu Honden detail 0016
Detail of the Chidori Hafu (dormer gable) on the Honden.
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Nikko Toshogu Haiden 8626
This is the Haiden (the Oratory, used for worship of the enshrined deity). The Honden and Haiden are connected by the Ishinoma (stone floored chamber) at the rear and between the two buildings. The roofed walls with lattice windows and openwork reliefs enclosing the Honden and Haiden are called the Tozai Sukibe.
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Nikko Toshogu Haiden 8195c
This oblique shows the Haiden Karamon gate with the imaginary ”lion” above the main Kara Hafu, and the dragon over the side Kara Hafu. (Kara Hafu are Chinese-style arched gables). Detail of the Karamon gate and the imaginary beasts are shown two images below (8177).
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Honden Tozai Sukibe 8284
Detail crop showing the transom openwork reliefs and lattice windows of the Tozai Sukibe to the right of the Honden Main Hall.
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Honden Karamon Gate detail 8177
A frontal shot (telephoto, from distance) shows the upper detail of the Honden Karamon gate reliefs and a head-on view of the ”lion”, along with a profile of the right dragon.
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Nikko Karamon Gate 8609
A frontal view of the Honden Karamon gate, with a Miko (Shrine Maiden) sweeping up.
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Nikko Karamon Gate detail 8604
Detail of the Karamon Gate, a National Treasure. Painted in white powder, the 27 sculptures of people depict a Chinese legend “The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove”. Below is a 2203 x 650 detail crop of the sculptures illustrating the tale of the Seven Sages.
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Nikko Karamon Gate detail 8641
A 2203 x 650 detail crop of the relief showing “The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove”.
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— Return to the Index at the top of this page —
Images in this section are in a number of different Galleries on the Photoshelter website. The Banner below leads to the Japan Collections page where a Gallery can be selected.
There are 21 Galleries in the Photoshelter Japan Collection — Nikko Toshogu Shrine is in the following Galleries (Direct Link) —
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Lower Level
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Honsha and Okusha
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Okusha (innermost shrine, with the tomb of Ieyasu)
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Nikko Nemuri Neko 8216
Carved by Hidari Jingoro, this is the famous Nemuri Neko (Sleeping Cat).
Nemuri Neko is above the Kugurimon (pass-through), the last beam of the Higashi-Kairo (east corridor), just before you reach the Sakashitamon, the gate to the Okusha (inner shrine).
Below is his carving of the sparrows. As long as the cat sleeps, the two can coexist. The cat symbolizes the feudal warriors and sleep symbolizes peace. It refers to the fact that the nationwide chaos of the Sengoku (Warring States) period was finally ended by the efforts of Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokogawa Ieyasu. As long as the feudal warriors “sleep”, a peaceful society can flourish.
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Nikko Sparrow 8223
Hidari Jingoro’s sparrows on the reverse (inner) side of the Kugurimon beam at the end of the Higashi-Kairo.
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Sakashitamon rear 8749
This is the Sakashitamon, shot from the steps above it that lead up to the Okusha. You can see just on the other side of the Sakashitamon, on the left, is a vermilion pillar. That pillar supports the Kugurimon (pass-through) beam. On that beam are the Nemuri Neko and the Sparrows.
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Sakashitamon rear 8749c
1350 x 1080 detail crop (master image resized to 90%).
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Nikko Stone Steps Okusha 8702
Just beyond the Sakashitamon begins the long, steep trek to the Okusha. The steps are monolithic granite, and there are quite a lot of them.
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Nikko Stone Steps Okusha 8706
The steps and concrete path ascend through the Cryptomeria forest to the inner shrine.
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Nikko Stone Steps Okusha 8708
Just two more flights of stairs now...
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Nikko Stone Steps Okusha 8711
This is the last leg of the ascent.
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Nikko Okusha Dou Torii 8715
You don’t mind if I create a little drama and anticipation here, do you?
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Nikko Okusha Dou Torii 8719
Copper Torii gate at the top leads to the inner shrine and the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu.
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Nikko Okusha Haiden 8746
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Nikko Okusha Haiden detail 8233
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The oratory of the inner shrine, where the deity is worshiped. The exterior is covered with brass plate and sheet copper, and painted with black lacquer. The three hollyhock kamon (family crest of the Matsudaira and Tokugawa) are displayed all over the building’s exterior. The interior is trimmed with gold leaf and pillars are decorated with gold foil (note the inside of the door). The Okusha Haiden was built between 1636-1641.
Inukimon Gate Okusha 8727
The formal gate to the central shrine where the Okusha resides. The pillars and crossbar were cast as a single piece. Two very elegant Koma-inu (Lion-dogs) stand in front of the gate, and the gate is flanked by imaginary “Shin”, a spiritual dragon-like animal that eats the spirit and exhales it as fire. The Shin can be seen above the Koma-inu. Built in 1650.
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Nikko Inukimon Koma-inu 8230
The pillars and beams were cast in a single mold, thus the name (Inukimon = Molded Gate).
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Nikko Okusha Hoto 8246c
The Hoto (or houtou) is translated as a Treasure Pagoda. It is the name for pagodas associated with the Buddhist deity Tahou Nyorai. In the early Heian period (9th c.), the esoteric Buddhist sects Shingon and Tendai were introduced to Japan. One of the legends of these sects is that Shaka (Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha) was one day expounding the Lotus Sutra when the Buddhist deity Tahou Nyorai, moved by Shaka’s show of devotion and respect, caused a pagoda to appear in which he sat and permitted Shaka to sit with him.
The body of the hoto rests on a lotus flower. The stone foundation is sloped to drain outwards, to keep the remains of Tokugawa Ieyasu dry, and the joints of the stone blocks are sealed with lead to block penetration of rainwater. The roof is peaked with a finial, from which emanate stems that end in bud-like shapes. The finial is crowned with a ball-shaped sacred jewel emanating flames. The kaen hoju (flaming sacred jewel) has the power to repel evil, cleanse corruption and grant wishes.
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Nikko Okusha Hoto 8246
Most hoto are made of stone. The Okusha Hoto was originally a wooden building when it was first constructed in 1622. It was rebuilt in stone in 1641. The current Hoto is made of a bronze alloy, built in 1683 when an earthquake destroyed the stone Hoto. 5 meters high, the Hoto stands on eight stone layers.
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Okusha Hoto 8740
The Tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa Shogun and one of three unifiers of Japan. Along with Toyotomi Hideyoshi, he ended the Sengoku (Warring States) period that lasted over 130 years, and established a Shogunate that lasted for over 250 years.
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Nikko Okusha Hoto 8250
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Nikko Okusha Hoto Offerings 8240
The vase, incense burner and candlestick in the shape of a crane were a gift from the King of Korea to honor Ieyasu.
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Nikko Okusha Hoto 8245
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616) was the founder and first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which began after the battle of Sekigahara in 1600 and lasted until the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Ieyasu was posthumously enshrined at Nikko Toshogu Shrine and is buried in the Okusha Hoto.
Ieyasu was enshrined with the name Tosho Daigongen, thus the shrine name “Tosho-gu”.
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Click banner above to go to the Nikko 1 page.
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Click banner above to go to the Nikko 2 page.
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— Return to the Index at the top of this page —
Images in this section are in a number of different Galleries on the Photoshelter website. The Banner below leads to the Japan Collections page where a Gallery can be selected.
There are 21 Galleries in the Photoshelter Japan Collection — Nikko Toshogu Shrine is in the following Galleries (Direct Link) —
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Lower Level
Nikko Toshogu Shrine: Honsha and Okusha
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Return to the Shinto Shrines index page
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Return to the Master Index on the Japan Select page.
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